
A few years ago I had the idea to try and increase the life of my dropper seals, stanchion and rear linkage bearings as the UK winters have a tendency to wreck them! I looked for products that would fulfil my needs but the available items were costly and well, not that great and ruined the beautiful lines and looks of my Whyte T-130.
My first attempt worked but in the end it didn’t go so well:

The dropper sock I initially fitted was too tight and so restricted the movement. (Notice how the mud stuck like glue too! There's a simple hack for that later!)
So I decided to make my own products to suit my needs 😀. The results were cheap, effective and didn’t ruin the looks (much!).
This is what I came up with...
The “Dropper sock”
*This technical piece of equipment is carefully sculpted over a number of weeks and heat treated to custom fit my frame and geometry out of high density butyl rubber. (Secret family recipe 😉)
Only joking 🙃 it’s an old inner tube chopped down to fit 😜🤣. It’s sealed at both ends and doesn’t let anything in!
Here’s all steps to make the Dropper sock:

1. Cut down an old inner tube to the length of the post from the top of the bike frame to the seat clamp. (Cut some extras as spares out of the same tube!)


2. Then remove the saddle and make a note/photo of your saddle clamp/bolts orientation and direction.

Add some silicon lube on the inside of your prepared dropper sock + stanchion of the dropper post and slip the tube over the top. (*WARNING! Make sure to cover any tyres/rotors/callipers before spaying!) I highly recommend the Muc-Off Silicon Shine.


Trim where required...

3. Then cable tie the bottom to the fixed base of the dropper that's fixed in the frame (with no lube so that it grips and stays in place!)

Now, re-fit the saddle and adjust to you preferred position (flat is generally ideal!) and make sure your saddle clamp/bolts orientation and direction are correct.

Now, pull the top up to the underside of the saddle clamp and cable tie to stop any movement or simply hook it front and rear of the saddle clamp bolts like I’ve done here.

TOP TIP🤩
To stop the “vacuum effect” happening and slowing/stopping the dropper from functioning, cut x2 very small holes. X1 at the top/front under the saddle and x1 bottom/front at the base of the dropper stanchion. This also allows you to add a little silicon lube if required.
(Slow-mo video)
You will need:
* Old MTB inner tube (that’s baggy when fitted so not a thin one!)
* Scissors
* 4mm or 5mm Allen key (saddle clamp)
* silicon lube (I recommend Muc-off)
* Cable ties
* A clean and dry dropper post 😉
I clean it regularly and add a little silicon lube every now and then to keep things smooth running 😉
My bike hack idea even made it onto GMBN!! (Ffwd to 11min 55)
https://youtu.be/WQ5OLGGmL5k

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